I  use computer to measure the fundamental frequencies of tuning forks.  I use this websites to measure frequencies  
http://www.seventhstring.com/tuner/tuner.html

shortest: length:16.4cm  1980  B   Second: length:18.1cm  1640  Ab  Third:length:18.9cm 1490  F#   Fourth: length: 20.2cm  1335  E   Fifth: length: 22.2cm 1099  C#   shortest:9.5cm  4640D  Second: 10.7cm 3755 Bb  Third:11.7cm 3115 G

These is my records. From these information, I think the chimes' length affect the frequencies.  If the chimes's length shorter, the frequency will be faster.  And I think if you hold the bottom of the turning fork, the sound will better.  When I test the chimes I hold the line that on the top of the copper pipe, because the sound will better use this way.  If your finger touch the copper pipe, the results won't be accuracy.

From the graph we can know when the length increase the frequency will decrease.

Violin test:

1: D#5  625HZ

2:A#5   919.5HZ

3:A4  496.0HZ

4:C#4  280.6HZ

5:D#4  315.9HZ

6:F4  358.7HZ

7: G#5  852.6HZ

From violin test, some record numbers seems a little bit strange, it's because some influencing factors I can't control like strength of the hand when I hold the violin lever.

First, I choose steel this metal as chime tube.  Second, I need to calculate the length, I use the DIY calculator to measure what's length I need to cut, than, cut.   I have to say that when you measure the chime's length, you need give 4mm extra length, because smoothing and deburring the ends to final dimensions will waste some length.    

After I I finish the chimes' cut, I use the line to hanging the chime tubes to test the sound one by one; Make sure these sounds sound good together.  

I download the "DIY Wind Chime Support Plate Calculator" on line, than I use this to calculate a pattern  for my specific tubing size and numbers of chimes as shown I draw on the paper.  

After I finish draw the pattern on the paper, than, I choose a wood and cut alone the pattern.

Strike zone for top, bottom or center alignment
Strike Zone for Top Aligned chimes. Find the center line for the longest chime and position the striker about an inch or more below that line.	Strike Zone for Bottom Aligned chimes. Find the center line for the shortest chime and position the striker about an inch or more below that line, or at the very bottom, the ideal strike zone.	Strike Zone for Center Aligned chimes. Find the center line for all chime and position the striker about an inch or more below or above that line.

I search online about how to hanging the chime tubes.  There are three style for hang the chime tubes for example: top aligned, center aligned and bottom aligned.  And I think bottom aligned is the best because it allow the striker to easily contact the end edge of all chimes, the ideal strike location.  Top aligned may have a more aesthetic appeal and on occasion some like center alignment.  All three locations work okay when you keep the striker away from the center dead zone.